Tomáš's Paris
Wander

Paris makes more sense on foot

These aren't sightseeing checklists. They're neighborhoods and routes where the walking itself is the point.

Walk one

Montmartre, early

Start earlier than you want to, before the hill fills up. Come out at Abbesses, take rue des Abbesses for the cafés and rue Lepic for the climb, and let the streets pull you gradually uphill.

The route itself is the point, not any single stop along it.

01 Abbesses, and the long way out of the métro
02 Rue des Abbesses, for a coffee standing up
03 Rue Lepic, uphill and to the left
04 Moulin de la Galette, the old windmill
05 La Maison Rose, pink on its corner
06 Clos Montmartre, the vineyard
07 Sacré-Cœur, and the city underneath it
08 Down rue des Martyrs on the way home
Start on Maps ↗
Sacré-Cœur seen from the lawns below, people sitting on the grass in front of it
Where the hill ends Photo: Mattia Bericchia / Unsplash
Walk two

Le Marais, north to south

Start in the northern Marais and drift south. Eat at the market first, then let the small streets take you down toward Place des Vosges, which is where this walk is actually going.

01 Marché des Enfants Rouges Small counters, no ceremony. Pick whichever line looks best. Maps ↗
02 Lunch at Les Enfants du Marché A counter inside the market. Sit at the bar and order what they tell you. Maps ↗
03 Sevenly Heart Coffee before you carry on south. Maps ↗
04 The small streets No route here. If you end up somewhere that isn't on this page, you're doing it right.
05 A museum, if you want one Three are right on the way, and none of them will take your whole afternoon. Carnavalet ↗ Picasso ↗ Institut Suédois ↗
Place des Vosges, red brick façades behind clipped trees, the fountain running and people sitting on the lawn
Place des Vosges Photo: Sitraka / Unsplash
Where the walk ends

Place des Vosges

Don't just walk through it. Sit under the arcades or on the grass for a while.

Red brick on four sides, plane trees and lawn in the middle, arcades all the way round for when it rains. It's the calmest square in the Marais, and most people give it four minutes.

Walk three

The Seine and the islands

One of the best ways to feel the city is simply moving along the river. No route, no destination. The two islands in the middle of it are small enough that you can't really get it wrong.

Walk the river rather than racing between the landmarks on it.

01 Notre-Dame, from the outside Better at night, from the quay, with the stone lit and the water moving. Maps ↗
02 Île de la Cité Cross it rather than tour it. The quays on either side are the good part. Maps ↗
03 Île Saint-Louis Quieter than its neighbour, and the better of the two to slow down on. Maps ↗
04 Berthillon, then back to the water Eat it walking. That's the whole instruction. Maps ↗

If you'd rather ride it than walk it, a Lime along the car-free stretches of riverbank is one of my favorite things to do in the city.

The lit arches of the Pont Neuf reflected in the Seine at night, seen from a passing boat
The Pont Neuf, from the water
The lawns at the Jardin du Luxembourg full of people lying out in the sun, clipped trees on both sides and the palace at the end
The lawns, on a warm afternoon

Or picnic at the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Buy lunch on the way in, find a patch of grass, and stay longer than you meant to. On the first warm weekend of the year the whole city is lying on these lawns.

Maps ↗